Interviewed by Ivy & Normanton’s Karlia Lykourgou
Ivy & Normanton founder Karlia Lykourgou interviewed trail-blazing non-binary barrister Oscar Davies to discuss self-expression and why feeling comfortable in what you wear might just make you a better advocate.
Karlia: You’ve described clothing as a kind of system, a language we communicate in. What does that look like in a courtroom context?
Oscar: I think of both language and clothing as semiotic systems, sets of symbols we’ve all agreed to interpret in certain ways.
A wig, for example, instantly tells people “this person is a barrister.” It’s a visual shorthand for expertise, authority, and professionalism - but when you combine symbols in unexpected ways, say, a traditional wig with a subtle eyeliner flick, it disrupts that expectation.
People notice. That tells us clothing in court isn’t just about rules; it’s about how we negotiate belonging, credibility, and identity through what we wear.
Karlia: So even the smallest stylistic choice can carry meaning?
Oscar: Exactly. Courtwear is a visual language, and every advocate is part of that conversation.
Karlia: There’s often tension between professionalism and personal expression. How do you navigate that balance?
Oscar: I don’t think professionalism and self-expression are opposites. Formality absolutely matters, the court deserves respect. But we also need to interrogate what “formal” really means. It shouldn’t be shorthand for conformity.
Professionalism, to me, is about being competent, prepared, and respectful. Those qualities aren’t undone by someone wearing a well-tailored suit that reflects who they are, or a collarette that’s more comfortable than a traditional shirt. The goal should be to show up looking polished and feeling like yourself.
Karlia: That’s very much our philosophy too - design that supports confidence rather than dictates it.
Oscar: Exactly. When people feel restricted by their clothes, they shrink a little. And that affects how they speak, move, and carry themselves. Self-expression and professionalism can - and should - coexist.
Karlia: Do you think comfort improves advocacy?
Oscar: I think of it in terms of mental capacity: if 20% of your focus is going to how you feel in your clothes, that’s 20% less capacity for strategy, detail, or persuasion. Comfort isn’t cosmetic, it’s directly linked to performance. Comfort gives you confidence, and confidence gives you clarity.
Karlia: In practice, how do you decide what’s appropriate to wear or say in court?
Oscar: It’s a judgment call every time. As advocates, we’re trained to read the room; the judge, the client, the moment. Sometimes, I’ll introduce myself using the honorific Mx (pronounced ‘Mix’); other times, I won’t, because the client’s needs come first. The same applies to presentation. You weigh context, formality, and what helps your client most.
Karlia: Courtwear is steeped in tradition. Where do you think we draw the line between tradition and progress?
Oscar: Traditions have value; they root us, they give structure. But they should also evolve when they stop serving people fairly.
Take the expectation that women wear tights in summer or that men always wear ties. These customs made sense once, but the world - and the courtroom - has changed. If something no longer upholds dignity or respect but instead restricts comfort or inclusion, it’s worth questioning.
Karlia: That’s exactly why Ivy & Normanton exists. We want to uphold tradition and make it workable for modern advocates. What would inclusive courtwear look like in real, practical terms?
Oscar: I think it’s about flexibility within formality. Give advocates choices that meet the same professional standard but allow for different bodies, needs, and expressions. Inclusivity doesn’t dilute professionalism. I think authenticity and professionalism can absolutely coexist. The more inclusive our idea of “professional” becomes, the stronger and more representative the Bar will be.
You don’t need to abandon tradition, just interpret it in a way that allows more people to stand tall, feel comfortable, and advocate brilliantly